Durga Puja Diaries- The Original Affair!!

“Hey! How many did you get this year?” “I got 6, what about you?”

“What’s the plan this year?” “Let’s cover south in Sashti and Saptami, and let us keep north for Astami eve and Nabami. What say?” “You guys carry on ya, I am going to Shimla with family this year. Will miss the Puja here though!”

These are very common examples of conversation lines during Durga Puja every year for the youth and kids of Kolkata. The numbers are that of new dresses they got this year for Puja and the plan is about pandal hopping where they are dividing the city into north and south for better planning. Actually the planning starts well ahead. And why not? After all the whole year of any Bong just rotates around the 4-5 days of Puja. We save our leaves, plan our vacations, complete our shopping, or save our new dresses, anticipate our bonuses only for these 5 days- MahaSashti to Bijaya Dasami. While some plan for pandal hopping, some take this time to escape into rejuvenation and go for the annual vacation tours.

If you have never visited Kolkata and think its not worth it, I challenge and invite you to visit this city during these 5 days. You will fall in love with this city. We know that Kolkata has a creative edge and that Bongs are somewhat proclaimed art lovers. But do you know that during these 5 days of Durga Puja, Kolkata hosts the world’s largest open air art exhibition, unbeaten for years? This exhibition is spread throughout the length and breadth of the city and is distributed club wise, or pandal wise and is completely free for the audience. This exhibition is otherwise celebrated as the Durga Puja festival. None of the pandals charge a single penny for entry. These pandals not only explore new creative heights every year, they almost always deliver a critical message to the spectator. For example, I visited a pandal this year which was completely made of plastic. It was beautifully decorated, there was plastic bags that we use for daily purposes, plastic cups used for drinking tea or coffee, then small plastic bowls and so on, overall a very colorful and happy picture. But the idol however, was not happy. There were tears rolling out of Devi Durga’s eyes, indicating that the extensive use of plastic is harmful to earth and hurting her children. This pandal potrayed the obvious message that use of plastic should be banned to help earth survive. These and many more interesting and creative ideas are presented in the form of Pandals and are more famously known as Theme Pujas. Their only inspiration is the huge queue of crowds that come to visit the pandals. Also, there are several awards that they receive from local bodies and a few companies who like to encourage these artists.

The theme Pujas are more famous in the Southern part of Kolkata. This part is comparatively modern and are open to exploration. There are certain clubs who have been doing this Puja for more than 70 or 80 years now, a few have crossed 100 also. All the clubs start planning and preparing for the Autumn Fest more than a year ahead. Because every little detail has to be given attention to and everything has to be flawless. And yes, everything is flawless. Their hard work, dedication and creativity is evident clearly every time. While some pandals decide to deliver important messages to the society, some choose simpler themes like dedication to a very decorated temple or a renowned personality or music, or a tribal representation, or an ecopark theme, or Jurassic park, or a depiction of any world famous place like Singapore, etc. But whatever they do, it’s always a treat to the spectators’ eyes.

Moving to the Northern part of the city, this side is more of royalty and traditional. Maximum number of “Barowari” or “Community” pujas are found here. There are certain very old families which have been hosting Durga Puja for more than 150 years now. They are the renowned families of Kolkata. If not that, North Kolkata believes in giving us the joy of relishing sight of Mother Durga in the authentic way, eyes from a Jamini Ray painting and meticulous décor of “Daker Saaj” made of sholapith. The pandal will be decorated like a palace and all focus will nbe on the idols of Goddess Durga and Her children, Lord Ganesh, Goddess Lakshmi on one side and Goddess Sarasvati and Lord Kartik on the other side. That view gives a feeling of immense satisfaction and gratification. My most favorite puja this year from North is the very beautiful and gorgeous Mohd Ali Park puja. Yes, you heard it right, Mohd. Ali Park, a Muslim area by name celebrates the biggest festival of Hindus. This is the effect of Durga Puja. It breaks all religious barriers. Seriously, it becomes difficult for anyone to tell the difference. Every house is lighted, there is an overall happiness and excitement in the air.

Mahasasthi, the sixth day of the new moon, marks the beginning of the festival. Although these days, pandal hopping begins from the fourth day itself, to avoid the extreme rush and never ending queues to famous and hiped pandals and to cover as many pandals as possible before Dasami. In the evening of Mahasashti, every one unfolds their new dresses and step out of their houses to smell festive air. People generally try to lay low since Pran Pratishtha (inviting the Goddess down on Earth to these idols) happens mostly on Mahasaptami. So, on Sashti it’s mostly friends and family, a few pandals, may be the nearer ones. You would want to save and gear up your energy for the next four days, where every individual transforms into a super human. With unfailing energy and enthusiasm, youth makes it a point to put in double shift to the entertainment and enjoyment quota. MahaSaptami, Mahastami and MahaNabami marks the happiest days of our lives. We get to be with our family and friends unhindered, no curfews, no restrictions. Most of the times, these are the occasions for huge family gatherings. You can spot sweet love stories, uncompromised friendships, you can hear sounds of soulful laughter and music and dance to the tune of Dhak exclusively and not any other music. These days always pass away in a jiffy, most awaited, but they slip away unnoticed and before you know it, it’s Dusshera, the day which marks the end of the festival for this year.

The most important part of this festival other than flaunting your latest season trendy apparels, is the food! Bong is originally a foodie race as a whole. While most of India observe only veg diet routine during these Nine days of Navratri, we, bongs, stand in queues to enter a restaurant for biriyani. Yup! We are shamelessly authentic non vegetarian race! During Puja, we hog on egg or chicken rolls and other fast foods like chicken chop, fish fry, etc from the street vendors near the pandals. Mutton (or chicken for those who don’t eat mutton) is a must on Nabami. Although Sashti and Astami are veg days at home, once you step out, no rules apply. We dig into the chicken guilt free without a care in the world. Those are the times we realize we live to eat!!

But as we are so very enticed in the festival, we often forget that Kolkata, as a city is on high alert during this time. The city police and municipal cooperation are always on their feet. We encounter many traffic detours and still get caught in jams and vent out our frustration about these traffic officials or volunteers, but we hardly acknowledge their side of the story. All these people, starting from every official on duty, volunteers, medical team at each pandal, the street food vendors, the people serving in our favorite restaurants, the Dhakis who make us dance to their tunes of dhak, all of them are on duty and away from their family, home and friends. Just imagine how will you feel? I would not work whatever the consequences be. But they work, without complain. Yes they earn money, but they lose the smiles of their kids when they put on the new dresses. Money can’t compensate that. No wonder some of them are so very pissed and frustrated. So, next time you see a dhaki, take a selfie with him, give him a reason to smile, if possible :). That might add a little more glow to his day.

Today is Bijaya Dasami, the final day of the festival. The day when Mother goes back to Heaven with Her children. When Goddess Durga’s idol touches the Holy waters of Ganga, we bid her goodbye for this year. The married ladies dressed in white and red sarees feed Devi Durga with little chunks of sweet and put vermillion on her forehead. Then happens the famous, “Sindoor khela” when married women play with vermillion with each other. It is a very beautiful sight but also the last happy thing in the Puja rituals.

I am sad, a bit, because all the fun ended so soon and I have to wait another year, another 354 days 15hours and 5 minutes to be exact to meet Goddess again. The rest of the year for some time after this will feel very empty because the main event is already over. After all, our calendar revolves around this. We are Durga Puja crazy folks! For us, Durga Puja is not just a festival, it's an emotion, a deeply embedded, very strong and passionate emotion!! :P

Signing off for now from this article and series, hope you guys enjoyed your Durga puja in every way you wanted. I would like to wish you all a very Dusshera and Bijaya Dasami, may you all be blessed with prosperity, love and good health. Keep Smiling.

Asche Bochor Abar hobe :) :)

(Coming year it will happen again)